Props Q&A

[kaese]

I just got introduced to the amazing Sugru from a design blog:

http://sugru.com/us

So cool. Currently imagining all the possible way to incorporate it into props and everyday life.

[kaese]

I have a question regarding FIBERGLASS!

I think Karrde recs using fiberglass every time I see him at a con so I've put a bit of thought into actually using it. One question I have is if I need to coat my insulation foam (pink stuff) with some mod podge to protect it from melting before I apply the fiberglass? Does fiberglass even melt the foam? I know spray paint does so I have a feeling something like fiberglass definitely will.

Thanks in advance!

[k0ala]

Spray paint is dissolved in a lacquer base which means the solvents are xylene, toluene, and methyl ethyl ketone. These three solvents also dissolve most plastics.

Fiberglass is epoxy glue and glass. It doesn't have the solvents in it so it won't melt your plastic.

I would take some of your discarded bits of foam and mix up a thimbleful of adhesive and see. Later I would try to pull them apart to see if the underlying foam had melted.

[at0m]

White glue (Polyvinyl Acetate) can be used as a protective layer over pink insulation foam, but it may cause delamination problems between your fiberglass and the foam because it doesn't bond super well to the foam. You using this foam as a form, or are you leaving it in the final product?

[HeK]

I think Karrde recs using fiberglass every time I see him at a con so I've put a bit of thought into actually using it. One question I have is if I need to coat my insulation foam (pink stuff) with some mod podge to protect it from melting before I apply the fiberglass? Does fiberglass even melt the foam? I know spray paint does so I have a feeling something like fiberglass definitely will.

Pink foam acts badly when exposed to polyester resins and MEK (bondo, fiberglass, etc) so it must be sealed. I've used a few coats of urethane casting resin in the past, but I have supplies left over from making Luin's bullets.
Most common fiberglass kits (3M Bondo, etc) use polyester resin. More expensive kits use epoxy, check the packaging before purchase.
Epoxies are also far less harmful then resin.

[[fr31ns]Karrde]

I usually ANTI-recommend fiberglassing/resins

[kaese]

Karrde link=topic=5961.msg226355#msg226355 date=1318279038]
I usually ANTI-recommend fiberglassing/resins

I definitely recall somebody from BRBu suggesting me to use fiberglass to re-enforce my medipack LOL. Why do you not recommend using it? Painting on the resin seems like an easy way to give my props an extra protective coating.
I'm also looking into some other materials to serve the purpose of giving my props extra protection (my foam-y medipack takes much abuse and has a few dents in it already) such as auto body filler, wonderflex and apoxie sculpt. I'm currently leaning towards using things I can easily buy at the local hardware store so wonderflex and apoxie sculpt are kind of shoved to the side for the moment.

*How smoothly does the fiberglass resin paint? Would it require much sanding to achieve a smooth surface? Using a putty-type material would give me greater freedom of making the surface smooth but definitely is also time consuming.

[HeK]

I definitely recall somebody from BRBu suggesting me to use fiberglass to re-enforce my medipack LOL. Why do you not recommend using it? Painting on the resin seems like an easy way to give my props an extra protective coating.

*How smoothly does the fiberglass resin paint? Would it require much sanding to achieve a smooth surface? Using a putty-type material would give me greater freedom of making the surface smooth but definitely is also time consuming.

It was likely me. Fiberglass is VERY strong and VERY lightweight. The 3" hollow tubes I made for my rocket launcher can support my weight, they weigh less then 8 oz.
The problem with fiberglass is the polyester resin, it's very toxic until it cures. You cannot inhale the vapors, you cannot get it on your skin. You need to wear a good OVP respirator and long nitrile gloves.

Now, unless you are using a mold, fiberglass doesn't give a good finish, it adds strength. While you can just use the resin, it's only like thick white glue. It's the glass cloth that adds the strength.
You need to use a filler, like bondo, to get a good finish. It doesn't have to be thick, but it needs to fill in the texture. With bondo, you can get a very hard and very smooth (like glass) finish that paints like a dream.

Keep in mind that both polyester resin and bondo use MEK and are very harmful until cured. Only work with proper safety gear and with proper ventilation.

[The Generic Name]

Now that my School's Gaming/Anime Group has an association with MIAD (Milwaukee Institute of Art & Design)  I may be able to get some pretty good props B)

If I ask nicely, I could be getting a Razorback and a Trophy Belt......

[[fr31ns]Karrde]

That being said, resin/fiberglass does work well if done right.

[kaese]

Any ideas on what to use for the oval wooden frame of the Darwin's Danger Shield?
http://wiki.teamfortress.com/wiki/Darwin...ger_Shield
It appears to be a long stick that has been bent into the oval shape. That...is not going to work in real life.

[at0m]

Any ideas on what to use for the oval wooden frame of the Darwin's Danger Shield?
http://wiki.teamfortress.com/wiki/Darwin...ger_Shield
It appears to be a long stick that has been bent into the oval shape. That...is not going to work in real life.

steamed wood will, or a green sapling, if you want to stay true to original design.

[HeK]

PCV pipe, filled with sand, ends capped, heat gun.

[kaese]

The PVC pipe method is going to be pretty heavy, but it's the most practical for me so I'll give it a try.

[HeK]

The PVC pipe method is going to be pretty heavy, but it's the most practical for me so I'll give it a try.

It should be pretty light when you are done; you only need ~1" PVC.

How To Bend PVC

[The Generic Name]

I'm probably going to need some help designing the functions for The Battlecast Cho'Gath Cosplay/costume I want to make.  I would do the electronic stuff through hardware, but that can get bulky and quite heavy.  I would rather have a lot of the electronics run on a program from a Micro-controller or something. But I am shit with programming.

Reference Pics!:



Missile bays open (In game shot):


Parts that need electronics/programming:
Lights on body
Speakers on shoulders(for audio files on his dance)
missile pods(open and close them)

I am not sure how I should hook him up or what types of materials I should use,  but I know they need to be light and a bit flexible.  I also would like to be able to control these functions from within the arms.  I know that when putting it on or taking it off, it will be a two person job

[Kor]

Just looking at it, and this is all off the top of my head, 2 recommendations come to mind: Use a chassis and offset the legs.

Due to the hunched stance and the chicken leg config, offsetting the legs would allow for a better posture with sacrificing much: Like this guy. I know the cloak maintains the look, something similar may be possible.



Secondly, and the availability is completely beyond me(But new pricing is exorbitant), a chassis based off a drum corps harness might be perfect for not only building, but also bearing the weight effectively.



Again, just tossing ideas at you, because this would an astounding cosplay, but a superb piece of work.

[The Generic Name]

Found a site with his animations:

http://www.lolking.net/models/?champion=31&skin=5